The stunning scenery of the Ring of Kerry and the friendliness of the locals keep tourism afloat in Ireland despite its financial troubles.
Ireland has been making headlines for all the wrong reasons of late. Its glorious green countryside and friendly natives have been overshadowed by reams of newsprint dissecting the perils and consequences of financial meltdowns, bailouts and unemployment.
A whole generation of young Irish is packing up to leave the "Emerald Isle" to take advantage of career opportunities elsewhere. Their predicament, although understandable, is also disheartening for they are leaving a nation that still projects incredible warmth despite its difficulties.
The Irish "craic", which translates as good conversation and laughter, continues to permeate the air of the country's public houses from the capital Dublin, all the way to Sligo in the north and Cork in the south.
Natural attraction
There is no better place, however, to experience everything that is quintessentially Irish than County Kerry in the southwest of the country. There are some things that money cannot buy, such as the stunning scenery that is very much evident on the famous Ring of Kerry — a tourist trail that starts in the picturesque town of Killarney and loops around the Iveragh Peninsula incorporating Waterville, Sneem and Kenmare. I had the opportunity to visit this beautiful countryside with Turkish Airlines.
The region attracts more than three million visitors each year due to its stunning coastline, which boasts magnificent views out over the Atlantic Ocean, and its combination of mountains, lakes and rivers. The Ring's many attractions include the home of Irish rights campaigner Daniel O'Connell and Killarney National Park, which incorporates more than 25,000 acres of diverse ecology — including the Lakes of Killarney and the greatest expanse of forest remaining in Ireland.
The start point for a tour of the Ring of Kerry depends on your mode of transport. Most tour buses run anti-clockwise, with cars, urged to travel the opposite way to avoid congestion on the narrow roads.
Killarney, the heart of Kerry, is perhaps the most common start point for most. The town is kept in immaculate condition and has more hotel beds than any Irish town or city — with the exception of Dublin. Its array of pubs and restaurants caters to thousands of people during the busy summer months and it is also known somewhat as a party town, with plenty of nightclubs to keep the younger generation entertained into the early hours of the morning.
Horse-drawn carts can also be seen transporting tourists around the town centre and its most famous landmark, the Killarney National Park. Locally known as "jaunting car rides", the carts offer a unique way of exploring the town's attractions. Each trip is accompanied by a "jarvie", who is more than happy to wax lyrical for an hour or so about all things Killarney; just keep your ears peeled as they often have thick Irish accents that even fellow Celts may find difficult to decipher.
From Killarney, heading in an anti-clockwise direction, coach travellers move through the towns of Killorglin and Glenbeigh, which boast views over Dingle Bay — an enclave that runs approximately 40 kilometres from northeast to southwest into the Atlantic Ocean. A popular stop-off point on The Ring is Waterville, which boasts a statue of Charlie Chaplin, who enjoyed numerous family vacations in the town.
Waterville is also home to some fantastic golf courses, including Waterville Golf Links and the relatively new Skellig's Bay Golf Club. For lunch, head to The Smugglers Inn (www.the-smugglers-inn.com), which overlooks the sandy beach at Ballingskelligs Bay and offers a range of seafood and shellfish delicacies. Personal recommendations include the Cromane mussels and the medallions of Skellig Island monkfish.
After passing through Sneem, the Ring comes to an end at Kenmare, another jewel in Kerry's crown. The town is famous for food and hospitality, besides a quaint high street filled with craft shops and retailers selling local produce. The area comes alive at night with revellers spoilt for choice as they navigate around the compact town centre.
In terms of accommodation, the five-star Park Hotel (www.parkkenmare.com) is one of the best in the whole of Ireland. The Victorian landmark, which dates from 1897, offers stunning views over Kenmare Bay and also has a golf course, a 25-metre lap pool, a spa and a cinema hall. The hallways are furnished with antiques and art while each of the 46 bedrooms has its own private veranda.
However, the Park is not the only top-of-the-range hotel in Kerry. A little further down the road in Killarney lies the recently renovated Europe Hotel and Resort (www.theeurope.com), which offers hiking and sporting activities. The hotel also features an Espa spa and the chance to go fishing in the lake; the chef will even be happy to cook your catch for dinner.
Sunset and seafood
There are many guesthouses in Killarney and Kenmare. No matter where you stay, it will not be hard to find a place that serves traditional Irish breakfast. It normally consists of meat, tomatoes, eggs, black and white pudding, fried bread and mushrooms. It is enough to keep anyone going until at least mid-afternoon, even after a day of fishing, trekking or golfing.
As the sun sets, tourists can take their pick from a range of restaurants offering formal and informal dining experiences.
A great place to experience Ireland's convivial atmosphere is Mulcahy's (www.kenmarerestaurants.com/mulcahys) on Henry Street in Kenmare. It features all the usual Irish staples but also offers international dishes including sushi and sashimi, and tempura of crab dumplings. The cosy restaurant is dimly lit and always packed so book ahead, especially during weekends when it gets quite lively
Kerry has spectacular scenery and a plethora of fine-dining options. But the one thing that stays with most visitors to this corner of Ireland is the friendliness of the locals.
From taxi drivers to shop workers and pedestrians, everyone in Ireland wants to talk to you whether it's to offer local knowledge or just to blether about the state of the weather. Ireland's financial system might be crippled but that has no impact on the country's natural landscape, which remains as striking as ever. The locals — beset by a lack of jobs and tough economic conditions — go out of their way to ensure tourists leave with an everlasting impression of their nation.
In the tranquil serenity of the Ring of Kerry, financial worries should be the last thing on anyone's mind.
3:09 PM
Carnegie Arts
